Suppose you asked native Italians what they think about “American food.” What do you imagine these people would say? Given that authentic Italian restaurants are revered throughout the world, does this question even compute? When you picture the fresh tomatoes and mozzarella of a Caprese salad, the layered artistry of an old-country lasagna, or a masterfully prepared puttanesca, is there any item on the “classic American” menu that compares? Set against Italian pizza, which pizzaioli (pizza makers) have perfected since the Renaissance, won’t the U.S. version always fall flat? Won’t that go double for hamburgers, hot dogs, and all the other fast-casual platters we think of as “American”?
Rick Steves, the famed travel expert, hasn’t found that to be the case. In a blog on his website, Steves recounts a conversation with Claudia, a tour guide in Rome who hails from Italy but has a great fondness for American cuisine. She loves the concept of going out for breakfast — which is rare in Italy — and savors stock favorites like BLT sandwiches. Later, Steves dines with friends from Tuscany, who speak lovingly of Buffalo wings. If you’re expecting condescension and snobbery, Steves’ anecdotes counter this stereotype: The Italians he knows have clearly sampled a good amount of American staples, and they’ve found much to enjoy.
Well, maybe too much. Their major critique is that U.S. portions are too big. “[Claudia] notes that in the US, size matters more than quality,” writes Steves. In this case, “size” doesn’t just mean Big Gulps and Super Size portions, but also extends to the complexity of the meals. “She says that the average number of ingredients in an American restaurant salad or pasta is eight or 10, while in Italy the average salad or pasta has only four or five ingredients.”
Quality vs. quantity in American food
