Cheeseheads, listen up. Tucked away in the Jura Mountains is Bellelay, a beautiful, off-the-beaten-path Swiss village that joins the Switzerland Cheese Train as a must-visit destination for cheese lovers. This charming town happens to be the birthplace of Tête de Moine AOP, a semi-hard cheese with a rich history dating back to the 12th century. Named for the monks who first made it (the name translates to monk’s head), Tête de Moine is both tasty and unique. It’s shaved into delicate rosettes using a tool called a girolle, which was created in the 1980s just for this purpose. Not only are the rosettes pretty, but the technique gives the cheese a melt-in-your-mouth texture.
This historical cheese didn’t become famous until the mid-19th century when a local farmer won big at the Paris Universal Competition. Since then, Tête de Moine AOP has become more and more popular, with more than 3.2 million wheels of the stuff produced a year — almost 62% is exported (Germany and France are the biggest buyers). But don’t think the Swiss aren’t enjoying their fair share, as Swiss people typically eat a lot of cheese — more than 50 pounds a person per year.
The best place to dive into the story of this beloved fromage is the Maison de la Tête de Moine, a museum and tasting center that walks visitors through the cheese’s history and production. You’ll see antique tools, learn how the cheese is made, and of course, sample some of the region’s finest of this delicious delicacy. Entry costs six Swiss Francs ($7), and there are guided tours and tasting packages available for purchase. But, there’s plenty more to check out during your time in Bellelay. Between the scenery, cheese, and historical sights, Bellelay delivers a uniquely Swiss experience.
Explore Bellelay and the scenic Jura Mountains
How to plan your visit to Bellelay, Switzerland
Bellelay may feel remote, but getting there is easier than you’d think. The village is located in the canton of Bern, about an hour’s drive from the city of Bern or between three and four hours by train or bus. While there are several airports you can fly into, you’ll most likely fly into Zurich International Airport (ZRH) if you’re traveling from abroad.
It’s possible to visit Bellelay as a day trip, but we recommend spending a night in the area to truly soak in the quiet charm of the Jura Mountains. There are a handful of charming guesthouses and inns nearby, many of which offer breakfast featuring — you guessed it — Tête de Moine. One recommended spot is the Hôtel de L’Ours, a historical inn dating back to the 16th century. There’s on-site dining and room service, plus every guest gets a free visit to the Bellelay Abbey — just ask for the key at the front desk. You’ll also find regional wines, local meats, and fresh baked goods at small markets and eateries in nearby alpine villages like Saignelégier or Tramelan (you can actually hike from Bellelay to Tramelan in about three hours).
The best time to visit is late spring through early fall when the hiking trails are at their best and the museum and tasting rooms are in full swing. Before your trip, you may want to explore some of Rick Steves’ tips for booking a Swiss mountain hotel. Don’t forget to check the Maison de la Tête de Moine website for special events that might be happening during your stay. Every cheese lover should bring their appetite, some comfy shoes, and curiosity to Bellelay, which might just be the most delicious secret in the Swiss countryside — it’s cheesy, but only in the best way.
