A lot of people imagine Alaska as a place where rugged wilderness and a frontier spirit of camaraderie come together, and most of the time, they’re not wrong. It’s one of the state’s enduring draws, and as outdoor tourism numbers in the contiguous United States continue to rise, more and more people are looking to truly “get out there” and get away from the crowds. And one of the most compelling candidates they’re finding is Gustavus, Alaska.
Perched at the edge of Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, Gustavus is one of several hidden destinations on Alaska’s coast that combine world-class nature with all the small-town charm that comes from tightly-knit communities living on the edge of human civilization. The area of land Gustavus sits on is a wide plain, the leftover landscape of glaciers that have been receding for the last several hundred years. The town is as “small town” as it gets — with a year-round population hovering around 450 people, visitors become part of something intimate.
Gustavus isn’t a place you stumble upon by accident. Located about 50 miles west of Juneau, getting there is its own mini-adventure. The Alaska Marine Highway ferry system offers ferries from Juneau starting at $55 that take 4 to 6 hours one way, and Alaska Airlines runs seasonal flights to Gustavus starting in June. Smaller airlines like Air Excursions also provide round-trip flights starting at around $300. But once you’ve arrived, the landscape quickly reminds you why you’ve put in the effort. Most visitors come for Glacier Bay, of course — a staggering expanse of icy fjords, mist-shrouded forests, and wildlife-filled waterways. But Gustavus has a quiet magic to it, too, and it’s more than worth visiting to get a front-row seat to one of the wildest corners of North America.
Gustavus’s wilderness and waterways
Gustavus isn’t just near nature; it’s shaped by it. Life here bends around the tides, the churn of glaciers, and the migrations of wildlife that have passed through the region for millennia. Visitors to Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve will find a raw expanse of nature covering more than 3 million acres of glaciers, rainforest, and coastline. The park is a jewel of Alaska’s Inside Passage, a 500-mile stretch of coast frequented by cruise ships coming up from the West Coast, and getting out onto the water here is practically a rite of passage.
Kayaking is a local favorite for exploring the ice-filled coves of Glacier Bay, with outfitters in Gustavus offering guided trips for beginners and multi-day wilderness excursions for seasoned paddlers. Those looking for a different vantage point can book a day cruise aboard small, local cruise ships, gliding past stunning Alaskan islands that make perfect destinations for wilderness lovers, breaching humpback whales, and calving glaciers.
Gustavus is more than just a gateway to the water, though. Hiking trails near Bartlett Cove wind through spruce and hemlock forests. The Forest Loop Trail is a laid-back stroll through the woods with a wheelchair-accessible boardwalk and multiple viewing decks offering views of a nearby pond. A one-mile loop in total, it’s a good starting point for adventure. The Bartlett River Trail takes you through forests to a river estuary, making it a great option in the summer for seeing spawning salmon — and the eagles, bears, and even otters that follow. And of course, fishing is woven into the culture here. Tour companies like NatVenture Tours offer river fishing expeditions and bear-watching excursions, and are a great way to get in touch with the ecology that defines part of Gustavus’ identity.
Small-town flavors and stays in Gustavus
