Los Angeles is not only the United States’ second-largest city, but a buzzing metropolis that draws visitors from all over the world. While you can stroll along its sandy beaches, explore its diverse neighborhoods, or visit this iconic attraction for film buffs, it’s also one of the best places for food lovers to add to their bucket list. From hole-in-the-wall taquerias to authentic Korean barbecue spots to some top-notch haute cuisine, the City of Angels has something to make everyone’s mouth water.
Despite this array of choices, perhaps nothing defines LA’s culinary culture and history more than the humble hamburger. The city is home to hundreds of burger restaurants, from major chains to mom-and-pop joints, and does anything say Southern California more than pulling into a drive-thru and ordering a burger with fries and a milkshake?
The late chef and travel host Anthony Bourdain understood this about Los Angeles. He knew that despite the amazing sushi, upscale eateries, and New American cuisine prepared by some of the most innovative chefs in that nation, that the burger was where it was at. Bourdain got that this simple concoction — a beef patty put between two soft buns — was the gateway to happiness, and represented what LA was about more than any other of their culinary offerings. And the place that perfected it, he believed, was the city’s iconic chain, In-N-Out Burger.
A simple, fresh, perfect burger
Established in 1948 in Baldwin Park by husband and wife team Harry and Esther Snyder, In-N-Out Burger was founded on the philosophy of freshness and simplicity. They’ve always maintained a stripped-down menu. The original shop was just a tiny drive-thru shack, and Harry Snyder insisted on buying fresh ingredients each morning. To maintain quality, he also exclusively used non-frozen beef patties and french fries that were freshly cut on site, a practice that the company still vigilantly maintains.
All of this added up to a burger that couldn’t be matched in its simplicity and deliciousness, according to Bourdain. “It’s the only fast food chain that I actually like and think is reasonably good for the world,” he told Eater in a YouTube interview in 2015. “Whenever I come to LA … I’ll hit the airport In-N-Out.”
Bourdain continued heaping praise in the chain’s food, saying that “there are many forces at play with a properly made burger,” including bun selection. This would make sense, as In-N-Out has been getting its buns from the same supplier, Los Angeles’ Puritan Bakery, since the 1950s. The simple recipe is designed to be toasted for maximum flavor. He then listed good quality meat as an essential factor, especially the two thin patties that “expose maximum areas of meat surface to the papules of the tongue,” and “non-limp, reasonably fresh greens and garnishes.” For Bourdain, however, In-N-Out’s pièce de résistance was the simple American cheese they put on their burgers. “You don’t want fancy cheese,” he declared. “This cheese-like substance is just perfect.”
Revolutionizing fast food and the industry at large
