Mythical, magical, underrated Crete is Greece’s largest island, an idyllic, quintessential getaway of sun, food, and beach. And despite it being the farthest away, it’s more than worth the journey. Too big to see the entire island on one visit (unless your visit stretches over a couple of months), you have to plan your itinerary carefully, incorporating drive times and weather into your choices.
One thing you shouldn’t think twice about, however, is staying at Kapsaliana Village Hotel. Built in and around a former olive mill that produced olive oil for the local monastery, Kapsaliana Village Hotel is a magical, hidden gem located in the mountains in the Rethymno region of Crete. The food is incredible (authentic Cretan with a modern touch), and it’s the perfect place to disconnect and delve into Ancient Greek history. Surprisingly, July and August are the best months to visit as most tourists hang closer to the coast.
With roots dating back to the 18th century, the village of Kapsaliana existed to produce the olive oil for Arkadi Monastery. The mill workers lived on and around the property, but when the monastery ceased to exist, so too did the need for the oil production. The village houses fell into ruins, abandoned and left alone until Greek architect Myron Toupogiannis viewed the property and was inspired to revive them as a boutique, village-style hotel. Preserving several of the original building structures and olive mill artifacts, the property has evolved slowly (over the last 30 years) to become a sustainable luxury property that is worth the visit to Crete alone. It’s only a 15-minute drive inland from the coast, but it feels worlds away with its hilltop location and ocean views.
What you’ll get at Kapsaliana Village Hotel
Arriving at Kapsaliana is like entering an exclusive village where you’re among the select few to wander the stone alleyways and explore its nooks and crannies freely. Check-in takes place in what feels like a living room, with the warm staff quickly welcoming you into their home. A lending library is nestled in the corner, in case you forgot reading material for the pool, and at the far end is a boutique showcasing locally-made products as well as food souvenirs made onsite.
The lovingly restored authentic village houses are a dreamy blend of stone, wood, and modern architecture with minimalist design. The 22 rooms and suites are all unique, some with terraces or private swimming pools. The Olive Mill Suite is a unique example of how Toupogiannis chose to integrate historical artifacts by including a historic millstone and an underground oil tern, visible through glass floors, in the open plan suite that is perfect for a family of four.
When you book a stay at Kapsaliana, plan for at least a couple of nights so you can experience each of the dining experiences (at least once), enjoy the pool, and immersive experiences (like cooking classes). If you prefer to leave the cooking to the experts, you’re in excellent hands. The stunning breakfast spread (included) features a range of house-made pastries (like saragli, a baklava-style pastry) and seasonal tarts, a range of Greek cheeses, avocado toast topped with Greek salad fixings, and fresh-squeezed juices. Lunch can be enjoyed poolside or at the Lemonies Bar, a cozy patio covered by lemon trees dripping with picture-perfect fruit. The pan-fried spinach pie with feta is like a Greek quesadilla, but better. And dinner at Elaia, the fine dining restaurant, is exquisite with a memorable twist on moussaka, tomato salad, and lemon spaghetti.
Planning your visit around Kapsaliana Village Hotel
