Puffins, pastries, and postcard views — the three “P”s everyone seeks out for their epic Scotland vacation, right? Okay, maybe not — but for those whose ideal escape includes all three, one seaside escape just a half-hour train ride from Edinburgh delivers just that. On the southeastern coast of Scotland sits a stretch of shoreline where rugged cliffs meet golden sand, and cute seabirds seem to outnumber people. It’s peaceful, scenic, and easy to overlook on a map, yet it offers some of the country’s most accessible and rewarding coastal experiences. This is North Berwick — a quaint seaside escape in East Lothian. It delivers a bit of everything: wildlife cruises to seabird inhabited islands, delicious bakeries and cafes serving mouth-watering fresh pastries and coffee, and panoramic walking trails that show off Scotland’s dramatic and stunning coastline.
Although perhaps not a flashy destination, North Berwick has been a popular summer retreat for those in the know. It was even named the best place in the U.K. to live by the Sunday Times in 2024, for its great combination of stunning landscapes, sense of community, and proximity to Edinburgh. The town is compact and walkable, with a well-loved high street, a quaint harbor, and miles of coastline to discover. You can spend your morning enjoying the local natural beauty, your afternoons perusing the shelves of locally owned shops and galleries, and your evening with a plate of freshly caught seafood eaten seaside.
North Berwick is home to one of Scotland’s best coastal golf clubs and the largest Northern gannet seabird colony, and makes an excellent base for a day trip from Edinburgh (what Rick Steves calls one of Europe’s most entertaining cities) or a laid-back weekend escape. It’s easy to reach, easy to navigate, and full of delightfully unexpected experiences.
Spend a day in nature in North Berwick
This lovely coastal town offers the perfect balance of natural beauty, wildlife, and quality local food. Begin your journey with a visit to one of the town’s most iconic landmarks, the North Berwick Law. No, this isn’t some old, strange Scottish law written into stone, but rather, law is a Scottish word used to describe a cone-shaped hill. This short but steep climb to the top of an ancient volcano rewards visitors with a 360-degree view of the town below, as well as the rugged coastline and Bass Rock, where the gannet colony resides. Visitors will also find a replica of a whale bone (a replacement of a real one), brought to the top of the hill to welcome sailors to the Firth of Forth. You will also find the remnants of an old Napoleonic War signal station, a lookout post during World War II, and the 14th-century Tantallon Castle, where visitors can learn about the remnants of a once great medieval fortress.
Since you’re able to see the gannets flying high above Bass Rock from atop the law, why not spend some time learning about them and the other seabirds that call North Berwick home? No trip to this quaint seaside town would be complete without visiting the award-winning Scottish Seabird Center, which offers interactive exhibits, live video feeds from remote seabird colonies, and information on the region’s rich coastal ecosystem. You can also get a good view of the inhabitants, such as puffins, gannets, guillemots, and the occasional dolphin, as the center offers guided wildlife boat trips to its surrounding islands. North Berwick also has two main beaches to enjoy — West Bay and Milsey Bay — each offering beautiful, long stretches of sand perfect for a sunny stroll.
Slow down and enjoy a day sipping coffee and shopping in North Berwick
