If you strapped on your watertight boots and decided to walk across the island of Berneray, the whole journey would take you less than two hours. You would pass a number of houses, where the island’s 140 residents live, and a smattering of landmarks. From West Beach, you’ll gaze out at the North Atlantic, confident that this tiny island is the very edge of Scotland, and there’s nothing beyond but thousands of miles of white-capped ocean.
Berneray lies in the Outer Hebrides, a cluster of 119 islands on Scotland’s northwest coast. Of these, residents have permanently settled on only 12 islands; this is a cold and rocky region, and it’s never been easy to eke out a living. Yet there’s something magnetic about this network of cliffs and dunes, sea grasses and hills; settlers first came here at least 5,000 years ago, and the spires of rock that form the Calanais Standing Stones are similar to Stonehenge but were erected even earlier. Norse raiders once plundered these shores, and Scots Gaelic remains a dominant language; Berneray is also known as Beàrnaraigh.
The result is a mystical land of remote islands and vast open spaces. The fog can lay thick and the nights are impossibly dark. Once you’ve hit all the best stops along Scotland’s North Coast 500, you can continue on by ferry or small aircraft until you arrive at the farthest reaches of the Outer Hebrides. Here, you’ll find tiny Berneray, an ancient island that may feel as private and remote as an inhabited place can get.
The way to Berneray, and the beaches you’ll find
To enjoy such a remote location, you’ll have to do some legwork. First, you’ll make your way to the seaside town of Uig, where you’ll buy a ferry ticket for the Caledonian MacBrayne Ferry. After an hour and 45 minutes on the water, you’ll dock in Lochmaddy, another seaside town on the island of North Uist. This land mass is also pretty modest, at only around 17 miles long, but North Uist is a veritable continent compared with Berneray, with many towns and villages scattered along its shores. From Lochmaddy — population 300 — you’ll drive about 20 minutes north, until you cross a causeway from North Uist to Berneray. Another option is to fly from Glasgow to Benbecula Island and then drive north to Berneray.
If you sincerely enjoy long walks on the beach, West Beach is one of the best you can find: This stretch of sand outlines the western length of the island, and it’s frequently considered one of the best beaches in Europe and even the world! Eventually, it merges with North Beach, which naturally covers the north. East Beach is an option if you’re located on the eastern shore. Finally, there’s the humble Queen’s Beach in the south. All of these locations have fine sand, long stretches of coastal grass, and very few people. The weather varies considerably and can turn on a dime, so make sure to dress in layers and carry water-resistant jackets; sudden rains are one reason tourists need to think carefully about the clothes they pack for a vacation in Scotland. Unless you arrive in the height of summer and have a high tolerance for cold water, assume that the ocean will be better to look at than to swim in.
Other activities around Berneray, Scotland
