Rick Steves Suggests Exploring Ireland’s Oldest City, Rich in Historic Charm

For such a tiny country, Ireland is absolutely bursting with incredible attractions and experiences, making it an amazing vacation destination. From unique landscapes like Burren National Park and the Cliffs of Moher to historic cities filled with music and ancient, moss-covered castles, Ireland punches above its weight for travelers. There are plenty of mistakes to avoid when visiting Ireland, as you might imagine from such a popular tourist destination, but it’s hard to go wrong when picking a place to visit. But while famous spots like Dublin, the Giant’s Causeway, and Blarney Castle are renowned, Ireland is a particularly rewarding place to visit for those willing to step off the beaten path and explore more underrated spots.

One of the best of these is the city of Waterford. The oldest city in Ireland, it’s a more authentic, real-life dose of the Emerald Isle than spots like Dublin, with “fewer leprechauns per capita than other Irish destinations” according to European travel guru Rick Steves. While he might describe the town as “plain, gray, [and] workaday”, Steves nevertheless recommends Waterford as a fantastic addition to a trip to Kilkenny. 

Located on the banks of the River Suir on Ireland’s southeast coast, Waterford is the largest city in County Waterford, and the seventh-largest in the Republic of Ireland. It’s close to the busy port city of Rosslare, where ferries arrive from Great Britain and France, and which can be reached in just over an hour. The nearest international airport is Cork, receiving flights from across Europe, which is around 80 miles away and over two hours by car.

Waterford is probably most famous for its fine crystal glassware. But while Waterford Crystal put the town on the map, there is a whole lot more to the place than just sparkling decanters. Indeed, the glassworks closed down in 2009 and most glassware is now manufactured abroad. However, Steves recommends heading to the Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre for a one-hour tour of what he describes as a “hard-working little factory” to see the finest glass craftsmen still plying their trade making “prestige pieces”. 

As the oldest city in Ireland, Waterford is bursting with exciting historic sites and experiences. The Viking Triangle is a great place to start, the cultural hub of the city. The main attractions are Waterford’s Treasures, a selection of fantastic museums exploring the Viking, Medieval and Georgian history of the city. Reginald’s Tower, built in the 13th century, offers insight into Waterford’s earliest history, followed by the purpose-built Medieval Museum, filled with incredible medieval artifacts and religious relics. Finally, the Bishop’s Palace is a Georgian delight, exploring Waterford’s heritage during the 18th century. 

While the rest of town suffers a little from “a mediocre image” according to Steves, there is still plenty of charm to be found. The two cathedrals, Christ Church and Most Holy Trinity are imposing and impressive, and there are plenty of fascinating ruined towers, churches, and fortifications scattered around. Waterford is also packed with excellent pubs, which in Ireland are an underrated option for meeting locals, soaking up traditional culture, and discovering the best live music.