Ghost towns were once thriving settlements that vanished due to natural disasters, the removal of infrastructure like the railway, or the loss of resources like gold or copper. They are sources of intrigue because the remnants often offer us a glimpse into the past, like Rhyolite, one of Nevada’s most well-preserved and photographed ghost towns. Ghost towns have also been restored, renovated, and turned into open-air museums, like Nevada City, a once prosperous Montana mining town abandoned when the gold ran out. Then there’s Cahawba (or Cahaba), Alabama’s first state capital and most famous ghost town. Today, it’s known as Old Cahawba Archaeological Park, a fascinating place to roam around, photograph gorgeous ruins, and learn about its archaeological importance in American history.
Cahawba, in southwest-central Alabama, is an unincorporated town where the Cahaba and Alabama rivers merge. The closest city is Selma, 14 miles away or a 22-minute drive via AL 22-W. From Montgomery, 61 miles away, the drive will take just over an hour. The closest accommodations to Cahawba are in Selma, like the iconic St. James Hotel, an antebellum riverside retreat in Selma’s historic downtown district. Otherwise, you can stay at the hip Trilogy Hotel Montgomery, which was created from three repurposed heritage structures. The best time to visit the area is early March to late May when the weather is the most pleasant. Summer months are also a popular time to visit, though hotel prices might be higher. If you want to see Cahawba at its spookiest, visit during the misty Halloween season!
Cahawba’s tumultuous history
Before it became a ghost town, Cahawba was already built on top of another ghost town, an ancient Native American village, Maubila, that fell at the hands of Spanish explorers in 1560. In the 19th century, Governor William Wyatt Bibb and his surveyors also discovered the remains of the ancient city and incorporated it into Cahawba’s planning.
Cahawba served as the capital city when Alabama became a state in 1819. When concerns over the town’s low elevation turned the discussions about potential flooding, the capital was moved. Shifting gears, Cahawba became a distribution hub for cotton and, in 1859, welcomed a new railroad line. Unfortunately, Cahawba’s luck turned during the Civil War.
First, the Confederate government appropriated Cahawba’s iron rails for the Selma-Demopolis line, cutting off its connection to the rest of the state. Then, a crowded prison intended for 500 inmates ended up housing 3,000 disease and lice-infested Union soldiers, degrading the city’s sanitation and health. A devastating seven-day flood in 1865 wreaked havoc, causing many sicknesses and deaths. The final straw for Cahawba was losing its county seat to Selma in 1866, which further decimated the town’s fortune. Within 10 years, the 3,000 residents who called Cahawba home left, and the once bustling state capital was abandoned.
During the Reconstruction Era (1863-1877), former slaves took over Cahawba’s forsaken courthouse and formed a community around it. However, this new development also didn’t last — by the early 1900s, Cahawba became a ghost town again. Today, nature has taken over, and all that’s left of its former communities are vacant structures and scattered ruins with the backdrop of pretty wildflowers and swinging Spanish moss.
A day in Old Cahawba
