In Northern Michigan, Leland is a tiny town hidden on Lake Michigan’s shore, on the Leelanau Peninsula. Originally inhabited by Native Americans, the peninsula was settled by Europeans in the 1850s. They established Leland as one of Michigan’s most picturesque villages, and the town’s historic district, Fishtown, is a charming fishing village that still exists today.
To get there, Leland is a 30-minute drive north of Cherry Capital Airport (TVC) in Traverse City, another one-of-a-kind Midwest destination for beach lovers. The drive to Leland passes along the 21-mile Lake Leelanau, which funnels into the Leland River that cuts directly through Leland and Fishtown. Fishtown is one of the last remaining fishing villages on the Great Lakes, and its authentic maritime culture and heritage have been preserved carefully, giving visitors a real feel for what life there used to be like. Wooden fishing shacks, smokehouses where fish are cured, and tug boats moored along the town’s docks all line the Leland River. While the original exterior structure of the wooden shanties has been preserved, the interiors have been converted into modern shops and restaurants, creating a vibe unlike any other villages on Lake Michigan.
Fishtown is perfect for a day trip from Traverse City, potentially as part of the underappreciated Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail. Or you can visit as a base to spend a couple of days enjoying the town and visiting nearby sites along the shore, like the Grand Traverse Lighthouse. The drive to the lighthouse is 30 minutes from Leland, but you can easily spend the whole day making stops in the Clay Cliffs Natural Area and Houdek Dunes Natural Area. Don’t forget to see the Leelanau State Park Observation platform, which you can only access by hiking in but which features stunning views of Lake Michigan.
Where to eat, shop, and stay in Fishtown
You need to spend at least an afternoon in Fishtown perusing the various restaurants and botique stores along the waterfront. Patron the store of the Carlson family, which has been an anchor in the Fishtown community for five generations. Originally from Norway, the family opened its fishing business in Leland in 1904. Today, the shop sells regional staples like smoked whitefish pâté and smoked whitefish sausage along with the fresh catch of the day. The Cove restaurant is beloved for its clam chowder and whitefish dishes, according to Yelp reviewers. Village Cheese Shanty is another favorite among visitors and locals alike (with over 500 rave reviews on Google). For coffee or tea, try Madcap Coffee Company, which features the Spanish coffee drink miel, made with cinnamon and honey. Leland Mercantile Co. is the go-to spot for all your essentials if you’re staying in the area — it’s a modern-day general store.
Leelanau Goods features independent artisans, selling everything from clothing to accessories to home goods like ceramics and candles. A family-owned business, Goodness on Main, is a concept store featuring clothing, skin care products, jewelry, crystals, prayer beads, and lots more. Also check out the restored fishing shanty The Otherside, which was lovingly remodeled by the Carlson family and is available to rent, comfortably housing up to six people.
The authentic lodging in Fishtown is admired for its waterfront location and terrific quality. The best dam lodge, Falling Waters Lodge, is literally built around the Leland dam, with views over Fishtown. A family-owned and operated property, the lodge was adopted by its young owners when their grandfather passed and has been renovated and modernized in the years since. Pet- and family-friendly, Falling Waters Lodge lets guests fish from the balconies and marvel at the dam flowing through the middle of the hotel.
Let nature charm you
