When you imagine Croatia, you probably start conjuring images of aquamarine Adriatic waters, pine-studded islands, and lively seaside cities with yacht-ringed marinas. While many come here for the dreamy island getaways of Brač and Hvar or the long list of seriously stunning beaches Croatia offers, the country also flaunts irresistible hilltop towns that beckon those willing to venture away from the coast for a few hours. One of the very best is surely Motovun.
Capping a 880-foot-high mound in the northern half of the olive-tree-covered Istrian Peninsula, Motovun has been hailed as one of the most eye-catching towns in the region. And that’s really saying something since Istria also hosts the gorgeous seaside gem of Rovinj and Pula, a city bursting with 2,000-year-old Roman ruins. While they draw the big crowds, Motovun remains small and sleepy by comparison — the town has a permanent population of under 1,000 people!
Because Motovun is so bucolic and remote, having your own car is the best way to visit. The drive in from Pula, which has its own airport, takes around an hour. It’s only a little longer than that to get in from Rijeka, where there’s another airport and a major ferry port. Be warned that the tight-knit streets of Motovun’s old town are largely pedestrianized, so consider using the larger parking lots at the foot of the hill.
The wonderful medieval heart of Motovun
The medieval part of the town that sits on the hill is unquestionably the main attraction of Motovun. It’s not big; just a couple of narrow streets and small squares, all encircled by big bastions and bulwarks that have been around since the 13th century. Even the walk up is incredible, as you pass under a duo of soaring gatehouses that contain ancient reliefs and showcase Gothic architecture.
Once you finally enter the old town area, you’ll be greeted by the Renaissance-era Church of St. Stephen, which sports a lovely daffodil-colored facade before a cobblestone square. Standing there means you’re in the heart of the town in the old plaza, from which a series of inviting streets fan out. Take any of them to get lost amid souvenir stalls selling truffles and olive oil.
Perhaps the highlight of wandering around the Motovun old city is the part where you get to scramble up onto the historic walls themselves. There’s a small entry fee, but the views are likely to wow. As one Tripadvisor reviewer puts it, “One of my favorite memories was getting up first thing while everyone was still asleep and going for a run through the still empty town and then along the walls. The mist was rising off the green vineyards below as the sun [came] peaking through the distant hills.”
The underrated and relaxed charms of Motovun
