“Lawrence of Arabia,” “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly,” “Game of Thrones,” and “Indiana Jones” — what do they all have in common, besides swashbuckling characters? They all had significant scenes filmed in the Tabernas Desert of Spain. Tabernas gets less than 10 inches of rain annually, qualifying it as a true desert and possibly the only one in continental Europe (though that’s debated). Nonetheless, it has been a stand-in for the North Arabian Desert, the Chihuahuan Desert, and the Dothraki hinterlands, earning it the nickname “the Badlands of Europe.”
What used to be a vast stretch of forgotten land has seen a revival of interest not just from film studios but also from adventure sports enthusiasts, scientists, researchers, and curious visitors all wanting to know more about Tabernas. The desert is located in Spain’s southern province of Andalucía. To visit, fly into Almeria, the closest city, and head north to Tabernas, a straightforward drive of under 30 minutes. Many sites are spread out across the desert, and while you can stop along the roads and highways, taking your car off-road into the desert is strictly prohibited. Alternatively, there is also a 45-minute bus that will drop you at the Tabernas station.
But don’t expect Hollywood glamour in this traditional Spanish town. “Tabernas is movie and TV history gold, yet it’s somehow hard to pair the sleepy traditional town with its pizzazz-rich claim to fame,” writes The Hungry Travelers blog, “It basks in its silver screen glory and star-struck memorabilia while its streets are empty and it’s old folk play dominoes and queue at the bakers. It’s the very definition of offbeat.”
Exploring Europe’s only desert in Tabernas
The Tabernas Desert rose to fame as the budget backdrop for so-called Spaghetti Westerns — low-budget Western films, often made by Italian directors in the Spanish desert. Clint Eastwood’s squinty glare across the desert is one of the iconic images of Tabernas. Some locations have been turned into attractions for visitors. Fort Bravo and Oasys Mini Hollywood are both film sets converted into theme parks, complete with cowboy shootouts and stunts on horseback. Most of the shows are done in Spanish, though. Oasys also includes a zoo. It’s all campy fun that puts visitors in the middle of a film set. “I wish I could play the theme song from ‘The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly’ right now,” said Traveling Robert on his YouTube channel, “because it does look like a scene out of a classic Spaghetti Western.”
To truly experience the desert, consider going with experienced guides on horseback or with specially licensed 4×4 vehicles. Malcaminos is a tour operator that offers both out of Tabernas town. It is also possible to go hiking in the desert. Spanish Highs, a tour company with experienced guides, offers guided walks to trek safely through the desert. Bring plenty of water and sun protection. Tabernas is also the site of the annual Badlands Cycle that travels from Granada to Almeria through the desert. The 800-kilometer route changes every year, and, for off-road cyclists, the gravel and sand of Tabernas is a welcome challenge that goes through some picturesque locations. If you like your wheels with engines, Tabernas also has the Andalucía Circuit, the sunniest racetrack in Europe, where you can book a day of racing.