In ancient Greece, the edge of the known world was marked by the Pillars of Hercules, twin mountains that rose from the mouth of the Mediterranean. One promontory stands tall off the Iberian Peninsula and the other strikes up from the continental tip of North Africa. What lay beyond these pillars was then unknown.
Today, we know one of these pillars as the Rock of Gibraltar, a part of the British territory off the coast of southern Spain. In many ways, it still demarcates the edge of Europe, as Rick Steves found in his travels. “A highlight of a visit here is a trip up to the summit of the spectacular, iconic Rock; a cable car takes you to the very top. The limestone massif is nearly a mile long, rising 1,400 feet with sheer faces,” Steves writes on his website. “At the top you can explore old ramparts and drool at the 360-degree view of Morocco, the Strait of Gibraltar, and the twinkling Costa del Sol arcing eastward.”
This small but iconic British outpost has more than a spectacular view. For curious visitors, this is a fascinating place to see how geography has shaped the history of empires.
Gibraltar: a British enclave in Spain with a unique identity
At its narrowest point, the Straits of Gibraltar are just 8 miles between Africa and Europe. This strategic location, controlling the doorway between Mediterranean and the Atlantic, has made Gibraltar a prize for empires. Even today, the Straits of Gibraltar are a vital shipping lane with about 300 ships passing each day. In the 18th century, British forces captured Gibraltar in the War of Spanish Succession. To this day, both countries feud over the territory.
While technically not an island, Gibraltar has the feel of one. A British enclave in Spain forging its own unique identity. Known locally as Gib or The Rock, the whole area is under 3 square miles with about 30,000 residents, nearly half of which commute over the border every day. Amazingly, it has an international airport with direct flights to London. You can also drive there in under an hour from the Spanish city of Algeciras. Since Brexit, however, the queues at customs have gotten longer. It also has its own currency, the Gibraltar Pound, tied to the British Sterling.
Life revolves around the giant limestone rock in the middle. Take the cable car to the top and wind your way down the mountain. There are spectacular views of the sandy beaches of Spain’s Costa del Sol on one side. On the other, the North African coast of Morocco and Algeria, an untouched and little-visited gem of the region. Watch out for The Rock’s famously feisty residents, hundreds of Barbary Macaques. Some of these tailless monkeys are friendly but don’t feed them! You can be fined thousands of dollars for it.