Portugal’s ‘Queen of the Border’: A Majestic City with Star-Shaped Forts and Abundant Wine

On the border of Spain’s Extremadura region, one tiny border town defended Portugal’s hard-won independence unceasingly between the 17th and 19th centuries, following the Restoration War. A city overseen by two star-shaped fortresses, in the cunning “trace italienne” defensive style. In fact, the well-preserved fortifications of once-illustrious Alentejo’s “Queen of the Border,” Elvas, earned it UNESCO World Heritage status in 2012. Designed by a Dutch Jesuit priest, the walls of Forts Nossa Senhora da Graça and Santa Luzia warded off the Spanish Army and Napoleonic French for nearly 200 years, yet still they stand — masterpieces harkening back to less-settled times.

Though isolated in its outlandish location, as the largest fortified city in Europe, Elvas is well worth your visit. And while the forts’ mystical multi-pointed star shapes can only truly be appreciated from on high, Elvas still has plenty to see and do at ground level — including visiting its 5-mile-long aqueduct and tasting the arid-sun-ripened wines of Alentejo’s celebrated wine cellars.

Initially conceived of in 1498, the Amoreira Aqueduct predates Elvas’ legacy as a garrison post, and it’s one of the most impressive sites in town. Four storeys of tiered buttresses hold piping that, to this day, supplies the city with water. To get there from the city center, walk southwest in the direction of the N4 to reach the viewing site, about 15 minutes away. Return to the Walled City via the canary yellow Portas da Esquina, tracing the bastioned ramparts on the way to Elvas Castle — an imposing fortress built by the Moors around 700 A.D. that now dominates the entire city.

Turn south to where the explorative Manueline-style Nossa Senhora da Assunção Cathedral watches over the Praça da República, and enter if you wish to view its well-preserved tilework. This may be a good time to pause and enjoy some petiscos (Portuguese tapas) with a robust aragonês,antão vaz, or port in one of the wine bars on the square. While it may not be as well-known as the Douro Valley, one of the oldest and most beautiful wine regions in the world, travel expert Rick Steves says the Alentejo region produces some of the best drops in Portugal.

The first of the city’s star forts, the Santa Luzia, is just a 20-minute walk south from here. Built in the 17th century, the fort now houses a military museum, open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday. From its walls, you can see across the stretching countryside and across town to its sister star, Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça. Constructed in the 18th century to complement Santa Luzia, Graça resides a couple of miles north of town. With its northern-facing swordlike protrusion, the latter’s design is certainly more striking, but getting there may require a drive.