When it comes to travel advice, there’s no one we trust more than Rick Steves. So when the travel guru says on his website that Dubrovnik is “a living fairy tale that shouldn’t be missed,” that should be a cue that you should probably be looking into the Southern Croatian city for your next holiday. More than just home to one of Croatia’s most beautiful and secret beaches, Dubrovnik is also a pedestrian’s paradise, earning fourth spot in hotel chain Motel One’s survey of Europe’s most walkable cities (ranked by meticulously collected and cross-checked data from Google Trends, Tripadvisor, and Google map routes). Enclosed within the thick medieval walls that protected the Old Town since the 1400s, Dubrovnik’s car-free city center and ramparts are a joy to wander around in.
Dubbed the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” Dubrovnik is a showcase of beautifully preserved architectural and cultural monuments spanning Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, earning its UNESCO World Heritage site status. That said, it takes courage to visit Dubrovnik during the high season months of June through August, when cruise ship passengers and tourists descend upon the city and its walls in droves. For a more leisurely visit, plan your Dubrovnik trip during the months bookending the summer — April, May, September, and October will have fewer crowds and therefore more chances to appreciate the fairytale setting of the medieval town by the sea that Steves calls on one of his travel guides, “one of those places that you never want to leave.”
Dubrovnik is served by Cilipi Airport, a 40-minute drive away from the city center. The airport shuttle bus stops at the Dubrovnik Main Bus Station. From here, you’ll have to complete the 2-mile distance to the Old Town by local bus or by taxi.
Walking along Dubrovnik’s walls
Rick Steves considers Dubrovnik’s walls to be the highlight of the city. The 1.2-mile (1,940-meter) wall affords scenic bird’s eye views of the Old Town from 82 feet (25 meters) above. Walking its entire length — including stops for obligatory photos — can take anywhere from 1.5 hours to 2 hours, though it can be done in as little as 45 minutes with few stops, especially if you’re hurrying back to your cruise port so as not to get left behind.
Steves recommends starting the walk along the wall from the Pile Gate entrance, where you can gaze upon Stadrun, Old Town’s main street, but you can also enter via the southeastern St. John’s Fortress entrance (next to the Maritime Museum) and the eastern Ploče Gate. The walls give you an overview of Dubrovnik’s stunningly unique location where “One side is a sea of red rooftops; on the other side, the actual sea,” writes Steves. From here, bright-colored rooftops pop out against faded ones, distinguishing the homes that were destroyed and rebuilt during Croatia’s fight for independence from Yugoslavia in the early 1990s. Glimpses of Dubrovnik’s must-visit sites — Fort Lovrijenac, the Minčeta Tower, St. John’s Fortress — can be admired from your walk along the wall.
As one of the most ‘overtouristed’ places in Europe, Dubrovnik is bound to be crowded. “Savor the town early and late, when cruisers and day-trippers have cleared out. If possible, avoid walking the city walls when multiple cruise ships are in town,” Steves advises. “Otherwise, aim to begin your stroll around 8 a.m., or just before 5 p.m., which also helps you avoid the worst heat.”
Traversing Dubrovnik’s Old Town on foot
