Rick Steves Praises This Charming Portuguese Gem as a ‘Proud Little Town’ with Relaxed Local Atmosphere

Rick Steves, an expert on the best places to visit in Europe, has strong opinions about what to see and what to skip in Portugal. For an authentic place to go, head just 83 miles east of Lisbon to one of the country’s most historic cities, Évora. On his website, the travel writer describes the city as a “proud little town” with a “laid-back local scene and a hearty cuisine that makes me think of Tuscany.”

Located in Portugal’s southern Alentejo region, the ancient city is surrounded by vineyards, Roman ruins, and white-washed plazas. Steves admires the town’s simple rhythm that doesn’t seem to have changed much over the decades. Steves says, “to this day it remains a center of commerce and conviviality for country folk who come to Évora for their weekly shopping.” To enjoy this city, grab a glass of red wine, sit back, and watch the world go by. The travel guru is also a fan of the untouristed town of Tomar for a perfect taste of Portugal without crowds.

Most of Evora’s must-see sights are within walking distance of the main square, Praça do Giraldo. This lovely plaza is still the heart of the city, much like it was in the 1500s when it was first built. Look down to admire the calçada Portuguesa pavement, the intricate patterned sidewalk you’ll notice in many Portuguese cities. Other notable stops include the city’s marble eight-spouted fountain and the nearby cathedral.

The Cathedral of Évora is one of the largest medieval cathedrals in Portugal, less than a five-minute walk away. The Roman-Gothic style masterpiece actually took about 70 years to complete, and the craftsmanship shows. Steves recommends heading to the rooftop for the best panoramic views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

However, the site that Steves really prefers over any other is the Church of St. Francis, which he describes as “more intimate.” The Chapel of Bones is what really draws the morbid-curious here. It’s built with over 5,000 skulls and other bones that line the walls from the floor to the ceiling. According to Steves, it was built by monks who wanted a place for the residents to reflect on their mortality and the “transience of material things in the undeniable presence of death.”