Tuscany, located in central Italy, is famous for stunning Renaissance villages like Pienza, famed for its cheese and unique landscapes. The gorgeous region is also home to Pontremoli, which is the birthplace of testaroli – the oldest type of pasta in Italy. It is arguably the ancestor of many pastas we know and love today.
Per the region’s official tourism website, Pontremoli was deemed “the only key and door to Tuscany” by Emperor Frederick II in the 1400s. Located in the mountainous northern part of Tuscany, the town was the pilgrims’ entry point to the gorgeous region and part of the ancient medieval route, Via Francigena, that linked England’s Canterbury to Rome. Today, it’s not as well known as its more famous neighbors, Pisa and Parma. However, with its cobblestone streets, charming plazas, and imposing castle, it has a rich tapestry of history, culture, and culinary wonders waiting to be discovered.
To reach this idyllic town, you can fly into Milan Malpensa International Airport, 150 miles away. If you are already in Italy, the town can easily be reached from other well-known cities in the area, including Genoa, Florence, and Bologna (where you can eat your way through some of the world’s best pasta). You can visit Pontremoli any time of the year, but spring is excellent for outdoor excursions like hiking the Via Francigena. Head there in autumn for the stunning fall foliage. Summer is ideal for festival lovers. During the Medievalis, the town erupts with everything medieval in August. Winter is quieter, but if you’re there in January, you can enjoy many bonfires.
Eat your way through Pontremoli
Pontremoli is part of the historical region of Lunigiana, which has been widely recognized as the ancient capital of Apua, a vital commercial center dating back to the Ligurian-Apuan civilization. One lasting influence of the Roman Empire is the most iconic Pontremoli pasta testaroli. Once made by peasants using flour, water, and salt, it was mainly known as a means for sustenance. It’s known as the “pancake pasta” for its crêpe-like texture.
After mixing the ingredients, the batter is spread on a testi (a terracotta or cast iron pot with a flat, rounded bottom) and cooked over fire. The pancake is then cut into triangles that are boiled, making a satisfying and delicious meal often served with pesto, mushroom sauce, or oil with parmesan. Several places in Pontremoli serve this iconic delicacy. Trattoria Norina is a rustic establishment with a terrace that overlooks the river and offers authentic local dishes. Osteria della Bietola, a quaint medieval dungeon-like restaurant only open on weekends, is highly rated on Tripadvisor.
Other mouthwatering dishes to try in Pontremoli are baked goods, like torta d’erbe (a delectably savory veggie pie) and karsenta (fermented bread with a crispy bite). If you have a sweet tooth, hunt down gli amor, a delightful dessert with a rich cream filling sandwiched between two square wafers. Spongata is a 16th-century cake made with dried fruit of Jewish origins. Go to Caffè e Antica Pasticceria degli Svizzeri to sample the handcrafted savory and sweet pastries and wash them down with an espresso, Aperol spritz, or negroni.
Exploring the ancient town of Pontremoli
