As the balmy summer months approach, you’re dreaming of lounging on a beach somewhere on the sunny European coast. There’s just one problem — the iconic seaside destinations you’ve been thinking of, like Amalfi or Santorini, are now so overrun with tourists that it’s almost impossible to have a good time. Luckily, there’s a solution: a charming, little town hidden along the northwestern shores of Italy that’s so secret, only locals know about it. Ospedaletti, in the Italian Riviera region of Liguria, has everything you could want from a European summer vacation — dramatic cliffs fronted by sparkling turquoise beaches and cozy trattorias to stop for delicious Mediterranean cuisine. And the best part is you’ll avoid the hectic swarm of nearby towns like Portofino and the Cinque Terre (which is one of Italy’s most overrated tourist traps, so you might want to skip it anyway).
The town gets its name from the Italian word “ospedale” (hospice, in English) thanks to the pilgrim’s hospital, known as the Knights Hospitaller, which was established there in the Middle Ages by the Knights of Saint John. Since then, Ospedaletti has grown into an enchanting seaside paradise dotted with colorful houses, walking trails that meander through the surrounding hills, and plenty of historical attractions like museums and galleries.
Ospedaletti is also within easy travel distance of other stunning destinations like Genoa, the region’s capital, and coastal retreats along the French Riviera, namely Nice and Menton, so it serves as a great base for day trips that explore the many cultural landmarks nearby. Ospedaletti doesn’t have its own train station (which probably helps to keep its tourist numbers low), but taxi transfers from the airport are available, or you can rent a car.
Things to do around Ospedaletti
Upon arriving in Ospedaletti, the first thing you’ll probably want to do is head straight for a spot to lounge in the sun. Bagni La Scogliera beach is the main stretch of sand and pebbles along the seafront, with plenty of restaurants and beach bars offering umbrellas and sunbeds for rent. The water here is a magnificent aquamarine hue, and an area of large rocks near the edge is popular among cliff divers. Further down is Spiaggia Ospedaletti, another public beach with loungers and shower facilities. After spending a day in the sun, stop by the family-run Bar Alba for homemade dishes like ravioli and meat skewers, which can be enjoyed on the restaurant’s lovely outdoor patio, perfect for alfresco dining. Baixaricò, highly rated for their delicious pizza, can be found nearby.
About a 10-minute walk uphill from Ospedaletti’s beaches is the Villa San Luca, a former mansion that’s now a museum of decorative arts and displays an impressive collection of antique furniture, porcelain ware, and even Egyptian artifacts. You should also visit the Pinacoteca Rambaldi in the neighboring town of Sanremo, about a 7-minute drive away through lush hillside scenery. Established in 1865, it’s a charming gallery of stunning paintings from the Italian Renaissance, with a bonus view of the coastal landscape.
For an exciting day trip outside of town, you can drive to Genoa; located about 2 hours away, it’s a picturesque port city dominated by church bell towers and cobbled streets. The top places to see here are the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, a Romanesque and Gothic edifice built in the 12th century, and the Piazza de Ferrari, the city’s main square. Take an hour’s jaunt in the opposite direction and cross the border into France to spend some time on Nice’s seaside promenades or tour the quaint alleyways in Villefranche-sur-Mer. You can also visit Savona, another secret seaside city on the Ligurian coast that’s just an hour and a half away by car.