Sitting between the provinces of Asturias and Cantabria on Spain’s northern coast, Llanes emerges like a dream from the wild, windswept shores of the Cantabrian Sea. This seaside town in Spain, cradled by the jagged limestone peaks of the Picos de Europa mountain range, is a symphony of nature’s magnificence and human ingenuity across the years. Its streets wind past historic buildings and cliffs plunging into the many blue-hued waters and waves, and the air hums with the promise of adventure along rocky trails towards hidden beaches, secret coves, and brilliant blowholes. Once a gritty whaling port, Llanes has blossomed into a quaint resort town, often touted as one of the country’s most beautiful coastal enclaves –– a title it wears with pride.
The ideal window for visiting Llanes spans from May to October, when the sun bathes the coastline in golden light, rain is scarce, and the beaches beckon with their siren song. To reach this hidden oasis, visitors can fly into Santander Airport, the closest airport hub, then choose their own adventure. Embarking on a scenic one-hour drive with a rental car is often touted as the best way to go for flexibility. A train from Santander takes about two and a half hours, or a bus trims it to an hour and a half. Either way, don’t forget to pack patience and a camera. Llanes lures travelers with its many enchantments, from its golden sands and secluded coves that need no filters to its historic central city studded with medieval towers and architectural wonders. It’s a destination where every corner whispers a reason to linger.
Golden sands and secluded beaches
Medieval towers and Indianos granduer: Llanes’ architectural marvels
Llanes’ historic center is a time capsule of cobblestone and stone. Medieval walls, stretching 980 feet (300 meters) since the 13th century, encircle a castle town where the Basillica of Santa Maria del Concejo looms in Gothic splendor. Its foundations were laid in the 12th century, and it’s also a revered stop on the infamous Camino de Santiago. The circular Tower of Llanes, once a cornerstone in the town’s defenses and later a jail, now houses the tourism office –– a poetic transformation. Wander the old quarter, a maze of heritage gems like the restored Gaztanaga Palace and the Gothic manor of the Dukes of Estrada, and you’ll brush against history.
Then there’s the legacy of the Indianos –– locals who sailed off to South America in search of fortune, returning with wealth that helped reshape Llanes. Their grand palaces, like the Palace of Partarriu, the Palace of the Marquis of Arguelles, and the Countess of Santa Engracia’s mansion on Avenida de la Concepcion, gleam with ornate details (think wrought-iron balconies and pastel facades). The Llanes Casino, another Indiano gift, dazzles with its elegance. This group funded public services and infrastructure like schools, roads, and public works, weaving their success and legacy into the fabric and history of the town. Llanes is Spain’s underrated summer jewel, where golden sands meet medieval echoes and Indiano dreams stand tall, and it gives so many reasons as to why Spain should be your next destination.
