Tucked Away in the Italian Alps: A Scenic Trail Through World War I History Surrounded by Charming Inns

Deep within the craggy peaks of the Dolomites in Northeastern Italy, the scars of a century-old battlefield still echo. Rising over 9,000 feet above sea level, Mount Lagazuoi was once witness to the explosive confrontations between the armies of World War I. Today, the slopes of Lagazuoi form a waypoint along the Alta Via 1, a scenic, 75-mile-long hiking trail that zigzags through the Dolomites’ breathtaking alpine terrain and brings hikers to the doorstep of jagged rocky bluffs and sweeping grassy plateaus. “Alta via” means “high route” in Italian, and of the eight different Alta Via hiking trails in the Dolomites, Alta Via 1 is the most popular. The trail officially begins at the famed Lago di Braies, one of Italy’s most pristine lakes, and terminates at La Pissa, a bus stop 20 minutes from the town of Belluno. Dotted along the trail, quaint cottages and mountain huts are nestled within the rocky landscape, offering hikers a place to rest for the night and fill up on hearty alpine cuisine.

The Alta Via 1 is traditionally hiked from north to south, and while the entire length of the route takes roughly 10 days to complete, hikers can choose to start and end their journey at any of the trail’s waypoints. The highlight of the hike is when you reach Mount Lagazuoi, where you can visit the fascinating open-air museums that have preserved the hidden battlefields of World War I. Between 1915 and 1917, both Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops carved deep tunnels into the rock face so that explosives could be placed. Now open for visitors to explore, you’ll also be able to see the remnants of trenches and machine gun emplacements. For outdoor enthusiasts, this will be an unforgettable trek through pristine natural landscapes tinged with forgotten history.

The best season for hiking the Alta Via 1 is from late June until September. Starting from the Lago di Braies trailhead, the full route follows stunning landmarks like Cinque Torri, a towering rock formation with five distinct crags, and the halfway point at Passo Giau, a sweeping mountain pasture. Towards the southern end of the trail is Lago Coldai with its glittering turquoise waters, and the soaring peaks of Mount Civetta. As you hike each section of the trail, you’ll come across the various rifugios, or mountain huts, for overnight stays. These are often completely booked out during the hiking season, so it’s recommended to make reservations well in advance. More than 80 different rigufuios can be found along the Alta Via 1, ranging from simple guest houses to cozy bed and breakfast lodges.

Rifugio Sennes is one of the first mountain huts along the trail, reachable within the first four hours of hiking. This charming wooden chalet offers comfortable beds and tasty local dishes like dumplings with goulash, which can be enjoyed al fresco from their terrace. Watch the alpenglow bathe the dramatic cliffs in golden light as you dine. Another stop is the Rifugio Scotoni near Mount Lagazuoi, which is convenient for those wanting to explore the war tunnels. Replenish your energy at Scotoni’s charming restaurant with mouthwatering barbecue, Florentine steaks, and homemade pasta. Then there’s the precarious Rifugio Nuvolau, perched atop a rocky outcrop, the oldest of the Alta Via 1 lodges and famous for its panoramic views of the Passo Giau. Experienced hikers may feel comfortable planning the journey themselves, but for beginner hikers or those who prefer peace of mind, guided hiking tours are available that will take care of all the necessary arrangements.